The Long Road To Shangri-la - Part 2

Covered under Chinese motorbike helmets we sneak our way past the entrance guards (saving another ridiculous 30 Euro) and start hopping from village to village around the lake. Soon we realise the deadly grip of tourism which laid out perfect roads and scattered hostels wildly around this beautiful water pond. Somehow local villagers have undergone this transformation - symbiosis or not - and small shops are found en mass, selling perfectly hand made scarfs as well as cheap touristy crap. We are now in the world of Naxi with streets full of proudly traditional dressed woman. My role in this society gets clear as I get ignored in the shops and for whatever I want Ava is the discussion partner. A world where women choose the lover and not seldom decide to bring up the child themselves. Here in this remote place we find a rest of steady hand-signing and eventually for a long time use again our own language. With our Czech friend we drink our way into the night and encounter soon another popular Chinese phenomenon.. the gate at 12pm and its related conquer via climbing.

Leaving Lugu Hu we roll downhill with silent engine for hours from this high peak and end up entering the first city at 2400m. 5 km away from the town we find a mining company has spoken with the street. The street didn't like it. Nor did we. Sliding through 50 cm deep moody potholes we battle our way past the trucks that decided to climb the road in a most random pattern. Steaming. Crying out their painful story of Sisiphus. Rolling into Lijiang we begin our usual routine of driving around lost for an hour, with stops between for futile attempts of asking directions. Eventually we find a hotel in the renowned old town, graced by over 20,000 tourists a day. After recuperating from a hard days drive, we head for the town. Ancient Chinese architecture is lit up from all directions indicating subconsciously its significant importance and beloved karaoke night clubs line the streets. Shouting, drinking Chinese surround us. We escape the chaos down a side alley and climb to a view point over the town. Silence apart from the foam of squeaky sound coming from below. We decide to leave this house of madness.

Richer by this loud experience we head back on China's tranquil roads for an expedition to nature's art objects – Tiger Leaping Gorge. Soon we envision the snow covered peaks of green jade mountains in the distance and roll along the brown river that sculptured one of the world's deepest gorges over the last few thousand millennia. After a day of appropriate admiration we head for the road northwards up into the mountains. We find one of China's most magnificent landscapes.. Untouched valleys. Remote villages. Snow covered mountains in the distance. With peace in our heart we glide along this fairytale scenery and enter the high lands of Shangrila, where seemingly free yaks grass the scenery. Having absorbed this beautiful picture into the soul we head back into the beloved arms of mother tourist trap.